I had everything I needed for dinner except for the hamburger buns, but I didn’t have it in me to make yet one more trip to the grocery store. Hamburger buns are not something that I think to make myself—but why not? Store bought rolls are fluffy and tasteless, and are merely a holder for the meat so that your hands stay clean. Imagining the ideal taste, I started with a challah dough, dialed down the sweet and boosted the yeast.

Homemade Hamburger Rolls (makes about 1 dozen)

Mix together the following and let sit for 10 minutes:

• 2 c. warm water
• 2 Tbs. sugar
• 1 Tbs. yeast

Stir in:

• 2 eggs
• 2 Tbs. oil
• 1 Tbs. salt
• 1 c. whole wheat flour
• 4 c. white flour, and a bit more as you knead the dough

Knead until smooth, 5-10 minutes. Let rise for about 2 hours. Shape into small balls, then gently flatten into the desired diameter—as the rolls rise they will get a little taller, but not wider. Let rise again for 45 minutes. If you want a seeded roll, brush the tops with a beaten egg, and sprinkle on your favorite seeds. Bake at 375 degrees for about 20 minutes, or until they are slightly brown. For softer rolls, loosen them, but leave on the pan, and cover with a towel as they cool. For crisper rolls, remove to a cooling rack.

Ruth’s Hamburger

My mother was the kind of cook who doctored up everything. A frozen pizza wouldn’t recognize itself when she was done with it. And her hamburgers were moist and flavorful. Forget about just seasoning the meat with salt and pepper, try it doctored up, and give those fresh rolls the meat they deserve!

Mix together the following, form into patties and cook as usual:

• 1 pound ground beef
• 3 Tbs. ketchup
• 1 Tbs. Worcestershire sauce
• 1 tsp. salt
• 1/2 tsp garlic powder
• 1 Tbs. minced onion (fresh or dried)